🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.